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A Whole New Vertical Wine Bistro

A new dining space, ramped-up menu by Chef Laurent Quenioux, and weekly specials make Vertical a whole new place to eat

Published on Thursday, October 6, 2011 | 10:13 am
 

 

Chef Laurent Quenioux

When I arrived at Vertical Wine Bistro for my scheduled review, there had been a mix-up and there was no reservation for me and no one knew I was coming. In a lot of restaurants this could prove a problem but not at Vertical. The very savvy, very gracious hostess, Heather Ohm did not even bat an eye. She simply seated us and got the ball rolling. I was very impressed and relieved.

The other thing that impressed me is the new dining space. It’s on the other side of the bar area fronting Raymond Avenue and with its big windows, offers a birds-eye view of Old Pasadena. If you squinted you might imagine yourself in a little bistro in SoHo or a cozy restaurant in The Village. It has a lively atmosphere perfect for enjoying a flight of wine, a nosh or two, or a complete meal.

 

Arugula Salad

Chef Laurent Quenioux is spending more time at the restaurant these days. He’s beefed-up the menu to add more American Bistro comfort food and he has some special surprises in store. “On Friday night, we have an oyster bar from 6:00 – 10:00 p.m. Every week a French guy brings imported oysters from all over the world and we always select two kinds,” he said. “On Thursday night, we have a burger night which is way popular so we have a selection of four burgers that we change all the time and the price is right, $14.00.”

We left our palates in the hands of Chef Quenioux and the wine selections to our waiter. We began our meal with a glass of Les Hospices Sancerre full of fruit and mineral notes. It was paired with Vertical’s Arugula Salad with shaved parmesan, pinenuts, Serrano ham and honey vinaigrette. I’m a real fan of arugula, I love its peppery taste but it can be a little overpowering when used alone. No so with this salad, the addition of the salty, smoky and sweet took the bite out of the arugula.

 

Mussels

A refreshing glass of rose from Listel accompanied a dish of mussels accented with Spanish chorizo and red bell pepper. The mussels were presented in a saffron and coriander broth. Each delicate mussel had its own slice of chorizo and red bell pepper nestled in the shell. Think paella without all the rice.

A deep Spanish red wine from Buil Gine set the scene for a Slow Roasted Pork dish. Fork-tender and braised with cocoa and honey, the pork simply melted. A bit of pureed sweet potato and a salad of frisee, apples, raisins and pistachios guilded the lily. This was really quite a decadent combination.

 

Slow Roasted Pork

A plate of Profiteroles filled with vanilla and hazelnut gelato finished the meal. Somehow this dessert never grows old. The tried and true combination of a crispy cream puff filled with luscious gelato and finished off with deep, dark, chocolate will always be one of my favorites.

If you’ve never been to Vertical Wine Bistro now is the time to go. If you haven’t been in a while, head on over you’ll find a whole new Vertical to love.

 

Profiteroles

Vertical Wine Bistro is located upstairs at 70 N. Raymond Avenue, Pasadena. Their hours are: Sunday: 4:00 – 11:00 p.m., Tuesday – Thursday: 5:00 – 11:00 p.m., Friday: 5:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. and Saturday: 4:00 p.m. – 1:00 a.m. They are closed Monday. For reservations or more information call (626) 795-3999 or log onto www.verticalwinebistro.com.

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