Cheval Blanc Bistro: French sans the Attitude

Remember when you where a kid and going to a fancy restaurant meant French food. The food was great but it was so intimidating. The waiters were French and looked like they smelled something bad. They stood behind you like your grandmother so you felt like you had to clean your plate.

Take away that snooty wait staff and what emerges is Cheval Blanc, traditional French cuisine sans the attitude.

General Manger Raul Villa says it this way: “The key to Cheval Blanc is wonderful service in combination with great food. You can take a quick trip to Paris without speaking French.”

If you saw the movie Julie and Julia or ever looked over Julia Child’s Cookbook, you would recognize many of Cheval Blanc’s entrees. Coq au Vin, Steak Frites, Confit de Canard, Bouiliabaisse, Boeuf à la Bourguignonne and Truite aux Amandes are all on the menu along with Escargots, Steak Tartare and Seared Foie Gras. All very traditional, all very French.

And the wine list is very French, too. I was delighted to find a proper French Rosé (Domaine de Triennes) on the wine list and happily ordered it. It was a true Rosé; light, dry with a floral nose. My companion was also surprised to find a wonderful Côtes du Rhône from Château D’Aigueville which had a smoky nose and taste.

I chose the Crêpes Forestière to start my meal. Rich gruyere cheese melded with wild mushrooms to fill the light crêpes. Those were finished off with a white wine cream sauce. There’s something about cheese and mushrooms and wine that make a perfect marriage of flavors. I cleaned my plate happily (and with no waiter behind me).

My companion opted for the Moules Dijonnaises, large mussels steamed in a broth of Dijon mustard, crème fraîche and white wine with just a bit of fresh thyme all served with french fries to sop up all those delicious juices! This was a big hit with my companion; the mussels were huge and tender, and the sauce was creamy and piquant.

For my main course I enjoyed one of their specials: the Arctic Char served on a bed of fresh pappardelle.  Arctic Char tastes like a cross between a salmon and trout. It was covered in a white wine sauce accented with lemon and capers. The pappardelle was studded with mushrooms and cherry tomatoes. What a fabulous combination of flavors.

My companion ordered the traditional Boeuf à la Bourguignonne. For those of you who have never eaten this classic, it is a sort of beef stew with Burgundy wine, pearl onions, bacon and mushrooms. Don’t let the word “stew” fool you – it’s just a term to describe the type of cooking, which is a long slow braise, usually begun on the stove top and finished in the oven. The meat is cooked for hours until it becomes tender and fully flavored with the Burgundy. This was served with mashed potatoes. The beef was butter-tender, the sauce thick and flavorful, in the barbecue direction.

For dessert we enjoyed a chocolate-Cognac soufflé with a vanilla crème anglaise. The souffle was light and tender with a hint of chocolate and a whiff of Cognac. The crème anglaise made a heavenly accompaniment with its assertive vanilla flavor. A proper end to a truly wonderful meal.

Be sure to try the Prix Fixe menu offered on Friday and Saturday, three courses-one price. The menu is changed weekly so call up for this week’s choices.

Cheval Blanc Bistro is located at 41 S. De Lacey Avenue, Pasadena. The hours are Tuesday – Thursday: 5:30 – 9:30 p.m. and Friday – Saturday: 5:30 – 10:30 p.m. The bar opens at 4:30 p.m. For reservations and more information call (626) 577-4141 or go to www.chevalblancbistro.com.