Two hundred miles; we Californians can do that in our sleep. But that golden two hundred miles up the 101 brought my companion and me to a town that left us feeling refreshed, rejuvenated and was infinitely enjoyable.
King size room at La Quinta Inn (Photo: La Quinta Inn)
Paso Robles (or Paso as the locals call it), the town you drive through to get to Cambria has grown up and wants you to stop and visit. Vineyards dot the countryside growing red varietal grapes and inviting visitors with the siren call of wine. Going hand-and-hand with that wine is food. Paso Robles has that too, with many small restaurants offering farm-fresh produce, fresh caught seafood (the Pacific is only 45 minutes away), artisan cheeses, and locally-sourced meats.
Two nights in the wine country themed La Quinta Inn and Suites with a plush pillow-topped king sized bed and a lovely balcony was where we began our adventure. This La Quinta Inn was more like a boutique hotel than a large chain. They offered many amenities like a wine and food reception each night and full breakfast in the morning with my favorite malted waffles. A big plus in our book was the free wireless internet, a must for most travelers these days. Also on the grounds is a fitness center outdoor swimming pool and spa.
Mineral Springs Hot Tub (Photo: River Oaks Hot Springs)
Speaking of spa what trip would be complete without a trip to a spa? So after unpacking we grabbed our bathing suits because we were going to River Oaks Hot Springs for a one-hour mineral springs hot tub with a bit of bubbly on the side. We learned from our host that sulfur springs run under Paso and that the Spa taps into them and heats the water in hot tubs. I’ll have to admit it was a bit odorous but once I got used to the smell the experience was very relaxing. The nice thing about the rooms is that they give you privacy while allowing a view of the outside.
Dinner that night was at Artisan, a local restaurant in the heart of Downtown Paso with a James Beard nomination and a local cred. Owned by brothers Chris (executive chef) and Michael Kobayashi Artisan’s menu focused on locally sourced ingredients (some from their very own farm).
We started the meal with some wine-on-tap, a new way to serve wine without the bottles and resulting waste. When in Paso I would really suggest you drink red wine since that is what is grown in the local vineyards. We ordered 500mL of Liberty School’s Cabernet Sauvignon, a fruit-forward wine with a bit of spice. We also ordered the Seascape and Firestone Ale fondue with garlic toast, broccolini and kielbasa. Fondue is fun and this fondue was delicious too. The cheese was rich with the taste of ale and the kielbasa (made in house) was the star. I asked our server if they used the kielbasa in any other dishes and she told me they didn’t. My advice? Quit hiding your kielbasa under a bushel guys, this stuff is dynamite.
Pizza of the Day: Caramelized onions, bleu cheese, duck confit, figs and arugula
I couldn’t resist the pizza of the day with caramelized onions, bleu cheese, duck confit, figs and arugula. Rich? Yes, but so yummy. I would definitely suggest ordering this if it happens to be on the menu but share it don’t make it your whole meal.
My companion being the big meat eater he is opted for the pork porterhouse. Grilled to perfection and served in a bbq jus the pork had big flavors of mustard and kale and was served with a savory sweet potato casserole.
Pork Porterhouse
Be sure and save room for dessert. The pumpkin candy bar pie I ordered was a little slice of heaven on a plate. It was sweet and spicy and served with tart creme fraiche gelato that brought the whole thing together: sweet, tart, spicy, and yum!
My companion ordered butterscotch pudding with salted popcorn caramel and pecan toffee. Sweet, buttery, smooth and rich the pudding melded with the salty popcorn for a tasty treat.
A good night’s rest and we were ready to tackle a few wineries. There isn’t a block with tasting rooms like in Los Gatos in Paso you go to the actual vineyards so a mode of transportation is a must. Rather than drive ourselves and designating one of us as the sober driver (hint: it wouldn’t be me) we booked a tour with Wine Wranglers. Our friendly tour guide picked us up at our hotel and asked if we had any wineries in mind to visit. We left the choices to his discretion. When all was said and done we had visited four wineries J. Lohr and Rio Seco on the north side of Paso and Rotta and Midnight on the south side.
Since we were lucky enough to come before harvest weekend, the vines were full of ripe grapes. The Paso region grows mostly red varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Petite Syrah and Zinfandels make a big showing with some Italian varieties thrown in. If you are a fan of Roses (I am) you’ll love the variety that the Paso vineyards offer. From slightly sweet, to crisp and dry most of the vineyards offer one or two different types of Roses.
There was a lot of activity in the wineries coming as close as we had to harvest, so we got to watch grapes being de-stemmed and being picked. It was a lot of fun and very interesting. Our tour came with lunch and we weren’t charged for the wine tasting (that can vary depending on the winery). We also were giving a discount on every bottle of wine we purchased. I would say this is the only way to go on a wine tasting tour.
Thomas Hill Organics was our destination for dinner. Beginning as a home farm Thomas Hill Organics has grown into a restaurant that makes use of what is grown on the farm along with other organically-grown local produce. Since the ingredients are fresh the menu changes weekly depending on what’s in season. The restaurant has a beautiful enclosed patio where we sat to dine.
Di Stefano burrata, heirloom tomatoes and arugula pesto
We began our meal with an appetizer of Di Stefano burrata, heirloom tomatoes and arugula pesto. Like jewels tomatoes of all sizes and colors surrounded the creamy burrata. Bursting with flavor the tomatoes were a sweet accompaniment to the fresh cheese. The peppery arugula pesto added a bite and brightness to the dish.
Miso glazed black cod was my choice as an entree. Lightly grilled and served on a bed of fried butternut squash, shiitake mushrooms, watercress, and seaweed it was delicious. A jam of chilies topped the cod to add a spicy-sweetness to the savory cod.
Miso Glazed Black Cod
Tender braised short ribs were my companion’s choice. Served with creamy polenta, wild arugula and Italian salsa verde the dish was topped with a fried egg for added protein and a bit of sauce.
For dessert we shared a tres leche cake with strawberries and chocolate fondant cake. I couldn’t tell you which I liked better, a chocolate fan I am, but the tres leche cake wasn’t without its charms.
Our two nights in Paso was a real treat, great food, good wine, bucolic scenery, a fantastic destination and well-worth the three and a half hour drive. Stay tuned for part-two of our trip (coming November 6) when we drive back down the 101 to the funky town of Avila Beach where we enjoy a unique hotel and help the environment as well.
The 411:
La Quinta Inn and Suites: 2615 Buena Vista Drive, Paso Robles. (805) 239-3004. www.lq.com
River Oaks Hot Springs: 800 Clubhouse Drive, Paso Robles. (805) 238-4600. www.riveroakshotsprings.com
Artisan Restaurant: 843 12th Street, Paso Robles. (805) 237-8084. www.artisanpasorobles.com.
Wine Wrangler: 800 Pine Street, Ste. 101, Paso Robles. (805) 238-5700. www.thewinewrangler.com.
Thomas Hill Organics: 1305 Park Street, Paso Robles. (805) 226-5888. www.thomashillorganics.com.
For more information about events, wineries, restaurants and lodging in Paso Robles visit the Travel Paso Robles Alliance website at www.travelpaso.com.
