Planning a trip to Paris this year? Tres bien. Buy a beret. Go to the Shakespeare Bookstore. Watch a movie in French. Visit the Louvre, and the Gardens of Luxembourg. Do all the usual touristy things, as long as you include a visit to the Bois de Boulogne and Le Chalet des Îles restaurant.
Nestled on an island within the Bois de Boulogne, a city park, and only accessible via a brief boat ride aboard “La Canotière,” this restaurant provides a tranquil escape from the urban bustle of Paris, while it offers a dining experience that blends history, nature, and gastronomy. And nobody gets hurt.
Accessible via a brief boat ride aboard “La Canotière,” this restaurant provides a tranquil escape from the urban bustle of Paris.
“La Canotière” is a charming boat that ferries visitors across the lake to the island. The two-minute journey across the lake sets the mood for your secluded “getaway.” The crossing is complimentary for peeps presenting a Navigo pass, children under 12, and persons with disabilities along with one companion. For other patrons, a nominal fee of €2 applies.
Under the culinary direction of Chef Pierre Chomet, Le Chalet des Îles presents a bistro-nomic menu that emphasizes seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The lunch offerings cater to diverse palates, including vegetarian options. While the menu evolves with the seasons, here are some examples of dishes that have been featured:
- Butternut Velouté with Coconut Milk and Lemongrass: A creamy soup that balances the sweetness of butternut squash with the aromatic notes of lemongrass.
- Autumn Salad: A medley of green beans, mushrooms, and a poached egg, celebrating the flavors of the season.
- Crab Meat with Curry: Paired with avocado and Chioggia beetroot, offering a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.
Main Courses:
- Lamb with Ratatouille: Tender lamb accompanied by a traditional Provençal vegetable medley, highlighting the richness of French cuisine.
- Fresh Fish Selection: Depending on availability, dishes such as bass ceviche have been offered, showcasing the chef’s skill in seafood preparation.
Desserts:
- Matcha Crème Brûlée: A classic dessert infused with the subtle bitterness of matcha, providing a modern twist.
- Grandmother’s Style Rice Pudding: A comforting and nostalgic sweet treat, reminiscent of home-cooked meals.
As yummy as these dishes sound, the actual menu may vary based on seasonal availability and the chef’s creative direction, as they like to say.
We opted for the prix fixe menu, choosing La Volaille fermiere, chicken with green curry, and the Miso Cod, if I remember correctly. I do remember correctly that everything was great and the setting was perfect.
Le Chalet des Îles operates from Wednesday to Sunday, with lunch service from 12:00 PM to 2:30 PM. On Sundays, a brunch is offered from noon to 4 p.m., featuring an all-you-can-eat buffet complemented by entertainment for younger guests. Reservations are recommended. The venue is accessible via a short walk from the La Muette metro station, followed by a complimentary boat ride.
Meanwhile, the Bois de Boulogne, in the western part of Paris, is one of the city’s largest and most famous parks. Covering about 850 hectares (2,100 acres), the vast green space is rich in history, dating back to medieval times, and has undergone multiple transformations over the centuries.
Originally, the area was part of the ancient Forest of Rouvray, a dense woodland that covered much of what is now western Paris. During the Middle Ages, this forest became royal hunting grounds under the rule of the French monarchy, as monarchs are wont to do.
Kings of France, including Philip IV (Philip the Fair), used the forest for hunting game such as deer and wild boar.
By the 14th century, King Philip VI ordered the construction of a monastery, the Abbaye de Longchamp, for nuns from the Order of Saint Clare. Over the years, the forest became a refuge for thieves and bandits who preyed on travelers, and gained a reputation for being dangerous.
In the 16th century, King Francis I initiated clearing efforts to eliminate the riff raff hiding there. King Henry II formally established the Bois de Boulogne as a royal park. His wife, Catherine de’ Medici, introduced elements of Italian Renaissance gardening into the landscape.
During the reign of Henry IV, the forest underwent further enhancements, including the planting of thousands of trees and the creation of new hunting trails.
By the 17th century, under Louis XIV, the Bois de Boulogne was included in the grand designs of André Le Nôtre, the famed landscape architect of Versailles. The Sun King opened parts of the forest to the nobility, who used it for leisure and horse riding.
In the 18th century, the Bois de Boulogne remained an exclusive retreat for the aristocracy. During this period, the construction of Château de la Muette, located at the edge of the park, became a residence for various members of the royal family.
However, during the French Revolution (1789–1799), the park suffered severe damage as many of its trees were cut down for timber, and aristocratic properties were looted or destroyed.
The Bois de Boulogne as we know it today owes much of its design to Napoleon III, the first Emperor of the Second French Empire (1852–1870). Inspired by his time in exile in London, where he admired the landscapes of Hyde Park, Napoleon III sought to create a similar green space in Paris.
Between 1852 and 1858, under the direction of Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann, the Bois de Boulogne was completely redesigned. Haussmann, known for his grand urban transformations of Paris, introduced the English-style park concept, emphasizing meandering pathways, picturesque lakes, and scenic viewpoints.
Haussman added two artificial lakes: Lac Inférieur and Lac Supérieur, connected by a small waterfall; winding pathways and gardens for leisure strolls; the Pre-Catelan, a beautifully landscaped garden; and the Bagatelle Château and Gardens. Which were created after a bet between Marie-Antoinette and the Count of Artois. I don’t recall the nature of the wager, or who exactly lost.
The lakes were designed for rowboats, and small islands, like the one where Le Chalet des Îles restaurant now sits, were created.
This transformation turned the Bois de Boulogne into a public park while maintaining some areas for exclusive use, such as the Hippodrome de Longchamp, a famous horse racing track built in 1857.
In the 20th century, the Bois de Boulogne continued to evolve. It became a major site for sports, entertainment, and recreation, housing the Roland Garros Stadium, home of the French Open tennis tournament; the Parc de Bagatelle, a world-renowned botanical garden, and the Jardin d’Acclimatation, one of the oldest amusement parks in Paris.
Today, the Bois de Boulogne remains a beloved destination for joggers, cyclists, picnickers, and nature lovers, offering a peaceful retreat from the urban energy of Paris. It stands as one of the most picturesque and historically significant green spaces in Paris, blending nature, history, and leisure in perfect harmony.
Okay, now you can go visit the Moulin Rouge.
