A World of Food Awaits You at 168

You might have noticed that there is a new restaurant where Villa Sorriso used to be. It is called simply 168. The restaurant, having its soft opening, embodies the wealth of world experience of its Executive Chef Hisahi Yoshiara.

“I wanted something simple, tasty, fresh, representing my 37 years of experience. I want to do something new to Pasadena. I want to merge all my experience here and show it at this restaurant,” Chef Yoshiara said.

As a veteran of the fine dining wars (Chef Yoshiara was Executive Chef at Café Jocoulet here in Pasadena in the 80s among many others) he wanted the atmosphere of 168 to be more casual and inviting. “I wanted the restaurant more open. I wanted to breathe the air and I wanted kids running around my big patio,” he said.

The evening I visited 168 couldn’t have been better for patio dining, there was a slight breeze that brought a breath of coolness. The meal started in the twilight and ended in the shadows of flickering candles. The murmur of voices mingled with the gurgling of the water feature to tamp down the noise of Colorado Boulevard.

A carafe of infused-water was brought to our table. Each day the water has a different infusion, this night it was cucumber. Along with the water we were served a glass of junmai daiginjo sake and fresh-grilled yakitori as a welcoming. This special extra will be offered through the end of September for dinner only.

An interesting aspect of 168’s menu is the assortment of fresh-squeezed juices, coolers and handcrafted sodas. Also an attention-grabber are the cocktails made with fresh juices and sake or wine. I ordered a Sling mixed with soju, plum sake, passionfruit, pineapple, lemon and bitters. This was so delicious and refreshing it was all I could do to keep myself from drinking it right down. My companion gave the Red Dragon a try which was very watermelon-forward with some soju and kaffir lime syrup mixed in.

Crisp wonton skins enclosed spicy ahi tuna tartar for an Asian-take on the taco. Complimented with julienned cucumbers and Asian guacamole these tacos were a great introduction to Chef Yoshiara’s Hajime menu. “Hajime is a Japanese restaurant’s version of first. That’s the appetizer section,” he said.

Next was Chef’s special signature dish of Japanese eggplant topped with Kyoto saikyo miso sauce and roasted sesame seeds. Sounds simple right? There is nothing simple about the abundant flavor of the savory-sweet miso sauce combined with the dusky eggplant. To put the experience into one word I would simply say “wow”. This is one dish you must try, it will blow you away.

A salad of organic baby kale was mixed with a tart basil-dijon dressing. Adorned with red onions, pecans, sultanas, Asian pear and heirloom rice crackers it was a fiesta of tastes. The kale was not tough and fibrous but tender. The combination of flavors and textures in this salad was great and very enjoyable.

Tender Kurobuta cha siu sat atop a bowl of spicy kochi-jan broth full of ramen noodles, shitake mushrooms, bean sprouts and onions in Chef’s ramen soup. Hearty, satisfying and full of flavor the ramen makes a great dish to share. The only problem I had was getting the long noodles onto my spoon and the spoon into my mouth without leaving a trail of delicious broth.

If meat is your thing and pork is your partiality this next dish is for you. A double-cut Kurobuta pork chop was surrounded by bacon and cooked to juicy perfection. Schezwan pepper-teriyaki sauce was drizzled over the pork which was served with roasted baby potatoes and sautéed kale: simple, straight-forward goodness sure to please.

What happens when you take a tender piece of Alaskan black cod and glaze it with miso sauce? Magic. Caramelized miso glazed enveloped the mild black cod to give it an extra layer of flavor. Served with edamame sushi rice, a Tokyo turnip with a surprise inside, cucumber-ginger pickles and house made ponzu the dish ran my taste buds through the gamut of tastes: sweet, salty, savory and spicy. The surprise, you ask? Extra miso glaze for dipping.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the bo ssam. An eight pound pork shoulder that is marinated for 24 hours and then slow roasted for six hours must be ordered 24 hours in advance. It can feed 6 to 10 people and is accompanied by red leaf lettuce, edamame sushi rice, ssam sauce, ginger-scallion sauce, and Napa-kimchi puree. I did not taste this masterpiece but I did see and smell it and I’m hoping to one-day order it.

No meal is complete without dessert in my humble opinion. While I was full of good food I just had enough room to squeeze in some of 168’s green tea tiramisu and flourless chocolate soufflé with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. The tiramisu was creamy with layers of sponge cake and the clean taste of green tea. The chocolate soufflé cake on the other hand melted in your mouth with the straight-forward taste of chocolate tempered with the smooth taste of vanilla. A fitting end to a fantastic meal.

168 is located at 168 Colorado Boulevard in Old Pasadena. They are open for lunch daily from 11:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. and for dinner Sunday – Thursday: 4:00 – 10:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 4:00 p.m. – midnight. Their Sushi bar opens at 4:00 p.m. daily. For reservations and more information call (626) 793-8008 or visit www.168pasadena.com.