A Quick Visit to Buenos Aires

Away from the hustle, bustle and tourists of Old Pasadena, Malbec’s is a charming neighborhood restaurant with a European feel situated on tree-lined east Green Street. Sitting there one quiet evening, I could just imagine myself on a warm summer’s night enjoying a small bistro in Buenos Aires, or even Paris. Such is the feeling of this restaurant.

Trying to get a handle on Argentinean cuisine is like trying to figure out American cuisine: it’s all mixed up. Two of the three owners, Pablo Alcorta and Javier Pardini, tried to explain it to me. Their food presents influences from all over Europe and Latin America. Chef Alcorta’s family is Welsh and Spanish, whereas general manager Pardini’s family is Italian. These family and cultural connections are reflected in Malbec’s diverse menu, from its Italian-inspired homemade pastas to Spanish paella. This restaurant is as diverse as the country it represents.

We were treated to a bottle of the wine the restaurant is named for, a Malbec from Luigi Bosca. This was a new one for me.  I had never heard of Malbec and was pleasantly surprised. Full-bodied with hints of fig and cocoa, this is the signature wine of Argentina.

Empanadas started our food journey. A staple of Latin cooking, these lightly fried “pies” come with a choice of fillings: beef, spinach and cheese, chicken or ham with cheese, or basil and cherry tomatoes.  I loved the beef, it was ground and seasoned with herbs and tangy with vinegar. The spinach and cheese was mellow and earthy. These are served with a crisp organic mixed green salad.

Chef Alcorta was born and raised in a coastal town and our next dish reflected that influence. Costa Patagonia, a dish of grilled shrimp, bay scallops, and calamari served in a sauce of paprika and garlic. Growing-up paprika was used for dusting deviled eggs it wasn’t until later I learned what a rich complex flavor it could have. Combined with the garlic, the sauce greatly enhanced the richness of the shellfish.

Our next dish resulted in a big surprise for me. I usually stay away from any type of raw meat — it’s a texture thing. My companion convinced me to try the Carpaccio and I am so glad I did. It was delicious! Paper thin slices of raw beef were topped with a salad of baby arugula, shaved Parmesan cheese, capers, red onions and avocado all tossed with a light lemon dressing. The peppery arugula paired beautifully with the slices of beef. Add to that the tang of the capers and lemon and the salty Parmesan, I could not contain the “yum” as I tasted my first bite.

The Great Argentinean Brochette was brought next, a very long skewer of assorted grilled meats coupled with a variety of sausages. This dish is more than enough for two people to share. Our brochette included four cuts of beef, chorizo and French boudin sausage. The chorizo is very different than the Mexican chorizo we are accustomed to. It is a link sausage, mildly spiced and grilled. The French boudin is not to my taste, a bit on the livery side. The cuts of beef were tender and savory.

This dish was served with three dipping sauces: salsa creola, a sauce made of onions and red and green bell peppers; caper mayonnaise, homemade mayonnaise with tangy capers (very béarnaise sauce-like); and traditional Argentinean chimichurri sauce made with olive oil chopped parsley, chopped herbs, garlic and lemon juice. Each sauce brought a different dimension to the beef. I can’t claim to like one better than the other because they were all good. Grilled vegetables accompanied the meat.

We finished our meal with two delicious desserts, Apple Panqueque and poached pears in a Malbec reduction sauce. The Apple Panqueque were crepes filled with caramelized  apples and pastry cream topped with a dulce de leche sauce and accompanied by vanilla ice cream. I declare this dessert “yummy!’

But the real stars were poached pears accompanied by a spicy complex reduction of Malbec wine with just a little whipped cream on the side. These were an absolute delight, light yet offering multi-layered tastes that tickled my taste buds.

Malbec New Argentinean Cuisine is located at 1001 E. Green Street, Pasadena. Their hours are Monday – Thursday, 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m. and Sunday, 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. Prices are moderate, appetizers and salads; $6.00 – $10.00; pastas, $14.00 – $17.00, entrees, $14.00 – $26.00 and desserts, $5.00 – $7.00.  For more information and reservations call (626) 683-0550 or log onto www.malbeccuisine.com.