Akbar: Hot Cuisine

Chicken Tikka Masala? Yes, it’s good and a great Indian food stand by. But why not try something a little bit different, a restaurant that keeps the menu focused? Akbar Cuisine of India offers a mixture of classic dishes and innovative flavor profiles that will keep the adventurous eater happy.

Most Indian restaurants serve food from northern India, because that’s what customers know. But recently southern Indian food is making its way into restaurants. This food is spicier, and there’s more use of lentils and seafood.

Avinash Kapoor, owner and executive chef of Akbar, said that hot regions have spicier food because it helps keep the body temperature closer to the outside temperature. In designing his menu, he pulls from all the regional cuisine.

Kapoor grew up in restaurants, first in India, and then in the U.S. when he came over at age 17. “My Dad put me in the kitchen with his chef when I was 10 years old,” said Kapoor. He was doing the accounting and inventory too.

When you walk into the small restaurant on the corner of Fair Oaks and Union, the smell is unbelievable. The kitchen is viewable from half the restaurant, right there in the middle of the space. Everything is made from scratch when it’s ordered, so when it’s packed (which it often is on the weekends), things can get backed up. Kapoor isn’t worried about that though. He knows that the flavors will not come together the way they need to if the chef is rushing the dish.

I stopped in for a late lunch, which was great because they serve the entrees with a side of Basmati Saffron Rice, Katchumber (salad of fresh tomato, cucumber and onion, with a lemon dressing), and Dal (a lentil dish, which changes daily; I was served black lentils), plus a basket of fresh plain Nan. Everything was really tasty, but I was in love with the lentils, which are so creamy and delicious. I could eat a bowl of them for lunch and be a happy girl.

The Salmon Tandoori is spiced with nutmeg and grilled Tandoori style. The result is a moist and flaky entrée that really shows the fantastic flavor of the wild salmon. I love salmon cooked over a fire, because the parts that get a little blackened are the best. This definitely fit the bill. Plus, for such a delicious meal, it was really healthy too!

The duck breast glazed with plum is a true delight of flavors. Served with a wedge of lemon (which I squeezed over the top) and a mix of raw white and red onions, the duck is first sweet and tart. The heat, which is very palatable, starts at the back of your mouth, rounding out the experience without overpowering the taste. What makes this dish special is how well the duck stands up to the bold flavors. At no point does this seem like “mystery protein in sauce.”

Kapoor enjoys developing recipes that combine traditional flavors in interesting ways, and it really sets his restaurant apart from other Indian cuisine. I highly recommend stopping in for a delicious lunch, or coming with a group for dinner (everything is served a la carte). But if you’re trying to grab a quick dinner before a show or movie, it may not be the right choice. If it’s busy, it can take a bit longer than you think to get your food.

Akbar, 44 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, call (626) 577-9916.