Cuisine Born of the Silk Road

Small, intimate and tucked away on a less-traveled section of Union Street in Pasadena, you will find Azeen’s. Run by husband and wife Abdul and Arian, this restaurant is a rare find in an area dominated by Italian, Indian and Japanese restaurants. True, most of these other restaurants serve wonderful food, but when you’re in the mood for something a little different, options are few.

Born of the Silk Road with influences of Persian, Indian, Greek and Asian cuisines, Afghani cooking is a category unto itself. Infused with cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and cumin, this cuisine defies classification and has the unique distinction of being the only Afghani restaurant of note in the Los Angeles area.

On my visit to Azeen’s, I was greeted by the owner, Abdul and shown to a table for four in the small, quaintly decorated restaurant. At the end of the room is a small bar over which is a large painting of the cliff carved Buddha, which was destroyed by the Taliban in 2001. A work in progress, the painting is one of many that will don the walls. Currently the alcoves are filled with native pieces, such as brass pitchers, hookahs and musical instruments.

While sitting at our table, we were served a glass of Robert Mondovi Private Selection, Cabernet. The wine and beer list is small, but with a good representation; Kendal Jackson, Napa Ridge, Parducci, Robert Mondovi, Clos Du Bois and BV. For beers the offerings are Becks, Corona, Heineken, Michelob and Miller Light. The muted voices of guests and soft Afghani music, mingled in the background.

Let the feast begin! To start, we were served six different appetizers. My favorite? The Mantu, a steamed dumpling filled with chopped beef, onions, and herbs, topped with yogurt and sautéed mixed vegetables. Choosing that favorite did not come easy. All of the appetizers were delicious in their own way. First there was the Aushak, leek and scallion filled dumplings topped with yogurt and meat sauce and sprinkled with rubbed mint; Bulanee, a turnover filled with leek, scallions, and herbs-fried and served with yogurt; Bulanee-E-Katchalu, a turnover filled with potatoes, ground beef and herbs; Pakawra-E-Badenjan (another favorite of mine), Slices of sautéed eggplant, dipped in a light batter and fried, topped with yogurt and meat sauce and Sambosa, turnovers filled with ground beef and chickpeas. All appetizers are served with a chutney sauce made from cilantro, jalapeño, walnuts and vinegar, slightly spicy with a tangy edge from the vinegar. The turnovers are made with something close to eggroll skins and then lightly fried. Vegetarians can order vegetable appetizers sans the meat sauce.

For our next course we were treated to beef, lamb, and chicken kabobs. Each delicately seasoned with herbs and fine spices and charbroiled to perfection. The beef is tender and tasty, slightly pink inside. The chicken, is breast meat, tender and juicy, not overcooked and the lamb was similarly prepared. In addition to the meats, was a rice dish, Pallaw; seasoned and browned rice, topped with carrot strips and raisins. Sweet, subtle with hints of cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. We were also served vegetable side dishes of; Kadu, sautéed butternut squash, topped with yogurt and meat sauce; Badenjan, a stew of eggplant topped with yogurt and meat sauce; and Sabsi, sautéed spinach cooked with onions and garlic. Vegetables are not normally something I eat a lot of, but these vegetables with their subtle spices and flavor combinations had me wondering why I didn’t eat more.

For dessert we had an aromatic pudding made with rosewater, cardamom, almonds and pistachios. Light, fragrant and not too filling, which was good because at that point I was full beyond description. We were also given some of the house tea, scented with cardamom. I have had the tea both hot and cold and highly recommend it.

Prices are modest; $5.00 to $6.00 for appetizers; $13.00 to $21.00 for dinner entrees which include a salad, freshly made Afghani bread (nan) and rice (pallaw); $5.00 to $5.50 for side dishes and $12.90 for vegetarian entrees. Wine will cost between $4.50 to $7.00 per glass, with the house wine costing only $3.00 per glass, with carafes and half carafes available. Azeen’s also serves lunch with prices between $10.00 and $17.00 for the entrees. They are open for lunch; Monday – Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and for dinner all week; 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Take out is available and VISA and Mastercard are accepted.

In all, my dinner at Azeen’s was a delightful experience. From the warmth of the owner, Abdul Taheri, to the variety and diversity of menu items, this is a restaurant I will visit again and again. My recommendation: Try it. you’ll like it!

Azeen’s: 110 East Union Street, between Arroyo Parkway and Raymond. Lunch: Mondays to Fridays, 11:30 a.m. until 2:00 p.m.  Dinner: Everyday, 5:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. (626) 683-3310. Website: www.azeensafghanirestaurant.com