DISH Bistro Bringing NoCal to SoCal

Ole Blue Eyes maybe be from Hoboken but he’d feel right at home in a place like Dish Bistro. It’s the kind of place where the bartender knows how many olives you like in your martini. The kind of place all the waiters know your name and treat you like a king.

“I wanted a place that Frank Sinatra would come in, have a drink and be comfortable,” says owner David Johnson. Along with Executive Chef Job Carder, Johnson has created a unique dining experience that combines French and Italian cuisine with California’s freshest produce. “California cool,” he calls it.

 

This is Johnson’s first foray into the restaurant business and he’s convinced he’s found the right team — Chef Job, General Manager Andi Miller and Bar Manager Matt Berkstrom — to make his long-time dream come true. They all met in Healdsburg when Johnson visited Berkstrom, his nephew, who was working at a restaurant called Manzanita. Johnson says that as soon as he tasted Chef Job’s food, he knew instantly that this was the guy for him. “I fell in love with his food, and we just started working together. I did all of this for him to shine as a chef.”

“With his food and my personality we’re going to do great,” Johnson laughs.

 Chef Job, a South Pasadena native, was inspired by the Northern Mediterranean region whose terrain shares many similarities with California. “I really like those regions and I’ve spent a lot of time studying that kind of food.  And I think California in general lends itself to the same kind of environment, the same kind of growth of products as it does over there.”

He has crafted a menu he says emphasizes the vast bounty of artisanal Northern California produce, wines and meats.

 

“I have found that in Sonoma, because of the land and the soil and the richness of it, when you’re dealing with organic growers and humane growers, the way the animals are treated up there and the hay that they get, it gives the animals a richer flavour,” Chef Job continues. “They just taste better!”

According to Chef Job, 90% of the products are made in-house. “I’m a real big fan of Slow Food and the Slow Food movement,” he says. “We make our own pastas. I make my own bacon, my own pancetta, my own prosciutto. We bake all our own breads too.”

Speaking of fresh baked bread, did I mention they have some of the best in this end of the Valley? Not only that, but it is served with a Pistachio Pesto that will knock you socks off. Give me their bread, pesto and a glass of California Cabernet and I’m a happy camper. But I can’t stop at that, because I couldn’t bear to miss out on all the other goodies at DISH.

 

I love olives (the brinier the better) and DISH has a starter plate offering the plumpest green olives, combined with shallots, pancetta and ricotta cheese and then battered and deep fried. Are you feeling me? I mean, really yum!

Also in the “Bites” category are chilled grilled pears topped with mascarpone and aged balsamic vinegar sprinkled with blue cheese. The pears are crisp and cold with just a hint of smokiness, and you know how well pears go with blue cheese: a match made in heaven.

Octopus. I know what you’re thinking, “chewy!” Right? Not DISH’s. Carder slices it just right, flash chars it and then combines it with grapefruit segments, and adds a bit of bite from a peppadew pepper and a bit of tang from lemongrass vinaigrette. This was the best and most tender octopus I’ve ever eaten. I was pleasantly surprised and happily ate the whole dish.

 

How about some fries? These aren’t just any fries but house-made with truffle oil and served with garlic aioli. Combine these with the Grilled Lambsicle, roasted with garlic and balsamic braised shallots over black Tuscan kale and you’ve got a memorable meal in the making.

If you like seafood then Carder has a treat for you. His mini boo ya which is a smaller serving of California Style Bouillabaisse is chock-full of cod, PEI Mussels, cockles, bay scallops in a rich lobster saffron broth. This will satisfy any seafood itch you’ve got to scratch.

A favorite of mine was the Lobster ravioli. House made pasta was filled with lobster and served with shaved perigord truffles in a brandied lobster “bisque” sauce. Rich, savory and buttery; it was a delight in every bite.

 

From the “Larger Plate” section of the menu I enjoyed the light tender Bodega Bay Petrale Sole. Enhancing the dish was a sauce of nutty browned butter and gold balsamic vinegar, sauteed salsify and grilled baby leeks. Delicate, mild, white fish with just a hint of sweetness from caramelization melted in my mouth.

Also from the “Large Plate” section was the Caper Berry and Olive Braised Jidori Chicken. Any dish that contains both capers and olives immediately gets my attention. The fall-off-the-bone chicken was served over house-made fettuccini with San Marzano tomatoes and fennel. A warm homey dish with some of my favorite foods: chicken, tomatoes, pasta and of course olives and capers.

 

Dessert’s another notable at DISH, crafted at the hands of  the former W Westwood’s pastry chef, Kristin Ferguson (“Her desserts are absolutely amazing,” gushes General Manager Andi Miller — and she’s right!) I zeroed in on the delightful Grapefruit Tart — think key lime pie but substitute a grapefruit filling and a pistachio crust. I just love grapefruit and this dessert did it justice. We also enjoyed the delicate Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta which is a delight on its own but top it with a gelee of pear and Elderflower liquer and you’ve got a one-of-a-kind must-try dessert.

Dish Bistro & Bar is  located 53 East Union Street (between Raymond and Fair Oaks Avenues). Their hours are TUESDAY through THURSDAY, Lunch 11:30am – 3pm, Limited Dinner Menu 3pm – 5pm. Dinner 5pm – 10pm, and Limited Late Night Menu 10pm – 12am; FRIDAY & SATURDAY, Lunch 11:30am – 3pm, Limited Dinner Menu 3pm – 5pm, Dinner 5pm – 10pm, and Limited Late Night Menu 10pm – 1am; SUNDAY, Brunch 10am – 3pm. Call (626) 795-5546 for reservations.