NeoMeze: Little Tastes, Big Flavors

NeoMeze is a sleek modern restaurant with a big city feel. Entering through the bright orange hallway off of Colorado Boulevard, you feel transported to a restaurant in SoHo. The high-ceilinged lounge has retractable panels and connects to a patio area on Mercantile Place, the pedestrian-only alley way running between Fair Oaks and Raymond.

Sitting on black leather seats in the lounge my companion and I were treated to one of NeoMeze’s specialty martinis, Fig in the City, a fruity concoction of Kleiner Fig Vodka, Cointreau, lychee and pineapple juices, and fresh figs. I really liked this but my companion quickly labeled it a “girly drink.” The pineapple juice was prominent, the fig apparent in the finish. I could envision myself coming to the lounge after a night at the Playhouse to enjoy one of these refreshing drinks.

We were escorted to the dining area by restaurant manager Eryck Chairez.  Sage green suede booths and brown leather tables with orange accents frame the dining room. The original brick walls of the building are exposed, giving the restaurant an eclectic touch.

The menu is divided into cold and hot dishes meant to be shared. Most of the items have a Mediterranean flair with ingredients like feta cheese, fava beans, cous cous and eggplant.

A glass of Baumard Savennières accompanied ColdMeze selections of Neo Bean Salad and Grilled Octopus Salad. The Savennières was dry to the point of a pucker, but when paired with the vinaigrette dressed salads it provided a foil to the tangy dressing which cancelled out the acidity of the wine, leaving a smooth fruity taste.

The Neo Bean Salad, a mixture of fava beans, edamame, haricot vert, and cranberry beans was accented with thin strips of mango, radish and red bell pepper. All of this was dressed with tart sherry ginger vinaigrette. Tangy, crunchy and refreshing this salad is a good starter to more complex dishes from the menu.

Israeli cous cous tabouleh, topped with grilled baby octopus was an interesting combination. Accented with parsley oil and dressed with tomato-squash vinaigrette, I found this salad to be a complex mélange of tastes, starting with the smoky grilled taste of the octopus and ending with the tang of the dressing.

Château de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé was poured to accent our HotMezē plates of Duck Rillete and Arctic Salmon. Complex and big on flavor it stood up to the richness of the duck without overpowering the delicate salmon.

Crostini, parlsey aioli, rich mustard and fleur de sel accompanied the shreds of duck Eryck refered to as duck carnitas. I found that the duck was much enhanced by the accompaniment of the aioli and mustard. Biting into the crisp crostini, the duck melted on the palate leaving behind a hint of mustard.

Mild salmon accented with English peas, cranberry beans, corn, sherry sauce and pequillo pepper honey was caramelized to a golden brown. Sweet-hot honey mingled with the fresh ocean flavor of the salmon deliciously accented with the fresh vegetables.

A French Pinot Noir accompanied the Lamb Chops we were to sample next. Spicy with a fruity finish the wine complimented the chops nicely. The lamb chops were served medium rare with a port wine reduction sauce and braised red cabbage. I savored the play of the slightly sweet-tart red cabbage with the richness of the lamb. The plumy port wine sauce was heavenly and paired well with the dish.

For dessert we were presented with a plate of assorted cheeses. Humboldt Fog, an aged goat cheese from Northern California was the hands-down favorite. The Huntsman/Gloucester from England made me happy. Aged cheddar with a middle of stilton it was savory and tangy. Not to be left out was the Morbier from France. A soft creamy cheese made from cow’s milk it was delightful.

As we were finishing our cheese, the lounge act began. On Wednesday’s Max Vontaine sings Sinatra standards. At first I thought they were playing old Sinatra songs until I realized it was a live show. What a surprise! Live entertainment is offered in the lounge almost every night. On Tuesdays, DJ Matt Franke plays favorites from the ’80s, and Wednesdays feature Sinatra-style crooner Max Vontaine. On Fridays and Saturdays, DJ Franke spins contemporary lounge music and top 40 hits, and on Sunday nights, soothing jazz warms the scene.

NeoMezē is located at 20 E. Colorado Blvd. in Old Town Pasadena. Dinner is served Sunday through Wednesday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. The Lounge is open nightly from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. An after-hours menu of cheese and charcuterie is available after dinner service. Reservations are recommended. For reservations and more information call (626) 793-3010 or log onto www.neomeze.com.