Restaurant Lozano: Mom and Pop it’s Not

At the top of a hill in the quaint town of Sierra Madre lies Restaurant Lozano. According to owner Gil Lucero, Lozano’s is “a contemporary mom and pop restaurant…a one-of-a-kind place that has evolved over 27 years and has become what it is today.”

What it is today is a restaurant that offers contemporary Californian food with Mexican and Italian notes. The kind of place that is a bit off the beaten path, but when you discover it, you’ll beat a path to it more often. From the art on the walls (most of it for sale) to the friendly staff, this is a restaurant you can claim as “your discovery.”

An array of appetizers graced our table. I started in on a tower of Bruschetta; smoky grilled sourdough that doesn’t shatter when you bite into it topped with garlicky Roma tomatoes and fresh basil.

Next came a quesadilla with a twist.   It was filled with tangy goat cheese paired with caramelized onions, spinach and mushrooms and was accompanied by red chipotle sauce. A heavenly combination of tart, sweet, smoky and spicy flavors danced across my taste buds.

Crispy crab cakes, served with a roasted garlic and thyme aioli begged for my attention. So I gave them the attention they deserved and savored every tender bite.

The last appetizer but not the least was the coconut shrimp. 4 jumbo shrimp covered in a crispy coconut batter served with a sweet caramelized onion-red wine sauce were a real tasty treat.

As the appetizer plates were cleared away, a salad of mixed greens, endive, crumbled Danish bleu cheese, candied walnuts, fresh pear and Champagne vinaigrette was brought to our table. The smell of the vinaigrette alone made my mouth water; the taste did not disappoint. Blue cheese and pear have always been a favorite of mine; add to that delightfully tart vinaigrette and sweet candied walnuts. Delicious!

Two of the evening’s specials came next. The first, a dramatic presentation of grilled swordfish served on a bed of mushrooms floating in a delightful wine sauce, was served with mashed potatoes garnished with bits of goat cheese. The swordfish was covered in herbs, which added another dimension to this tasty dish.

The other special was lamb rolled with rosemary. This was served in a sweet tamarind-honey sauce and accompanied by risotto. The tamarind sauce was a nice departure from the usual sauces served with lamb. It added a “what is this flavor?” complexity to the dish.

Two entrees off the menu came next. Lozano’s popular fettuccine served with grilled chicken, accompanied by an herb, sundried tomato and mushroom cream sauce was rich and savory. I can see why this is a favorite.

The other menu item, Chilaquiles (Mexican comfort food) contained layers of corn tortillas, studded with roasted vegetables, three cheeses and chipotle salsa. This was served on a savory black bean sauce. Chiliaquiles have always been a favorite of mine since the first time I tasted them in Cabo.

As an accompaniment to our meal I ordered a glass of the house Pinot Noir and my companion a glass of the house Cabernet. Both were very drinkable and reasonably priced. All the house wines at Restaurant Lozano are Kinderwood from the Maddalena winery.

After all of this wonderful food, one might ask, “Do you seriously want dessert?”  Of course, three of them in fact! A red yam flan, lemon tart and flourless chocolate cake beckoned to me.

The flan was pure bliss; studded with spices, it melted in my mouth. The lemon tart lived up to its name; it was tart, but a butter crust and lemon raspberry sauce mellowed it out.

Don’t forget the chocolate and we didn’t. It came to the table in the form of a dark, surprisingly lightly textured flourless chocolate cake. The cake was almost pudding-like and was accompanied by fresh whipped cream. A fitting end to a wonderful meal.

Restaurant Lozano is located at 44 N. Baldwin Avenue, Sierra Madre. They are open for lunch Monday – Friday, 11:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. and for dinner Sunday – Thursday, 5:30 – 9:00 and Friday and Saturday, 5:30 – 10:00 p.m. Appetizers cost between $5.00 and $14.00, Soups and salads between $8.00 and $18.00 (the higher prices are for meal-size salads) and entrees between $14.00 and $32.00.  For reservations and more information call (626) 355-5945 or log onto www.restaurantlozano.com.