The idea that one might find an award-winning restaurant in Pasadena is no surprise. That you might find three semifinalists for a prestigious James Beard Foundation Award in a nondescript building on Allen Avenue, is quite another matter.
But just last week, the Foundation—named for the legendary author, chef, cookbook author, teacher and TV personality—announced its 2022 semifinalists in five categories, with winners to be honored at The James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony on Monday, June 13, 2022, at the Lyric Opera of Chicago.
Among the list of renowned chefs, bakers, and restaurant owners listed were Joseph, Archalous and Caroline Geragosian of Pasadena’s Old Sasoon Bakery, who were named as semifinalists in the Outstanding Baker category.
According to the foundation, “The mission of the James Beard Awards is to recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system, as well as a demonstrated commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability, and a culture where all can thrive.”
The Geragosian journey began in a small town in Syria where the family patriarch first opened a bakery in 1948.
“My dad started in the business when he was nine years old,” said Joseph, during our visit to the shop Tuesday.
“His father passed away,” Joseph recalled, “so he had to do something.”
Eventually Joseph stepped up into the business to join his father, Archalous, along with his sister Caroline.
They migrated to the US in the early ‘80s and opened the shop in 1986, at one third of its current size, and it has been gathering friends and favor ever since.
And while there are a number of bakeries across the nation called “Sasoon Bakery,“ as part of a chain, Joseph stressed that their bakery is, and has always been, independent.
“That’s why we call it ‘Old Sasoon bakery,’” he said.
As he noted, there are pockets of Armenians throughout the Middle East and Europe, and each community brings to the cooking mix its own flavors and spices.
“We come from a Syrian background,” Joseph explained, “and we have some stuff that is Mediterranean. Everybody adopts their own styles, and we make all the same things, just with different flavors.”
Among the specialties the family creates are its meat pies, potato pies, sausage pies, and Mediterranean pizzas made with in-house flat breads. Not to mention, of course, their beloved Khachapuri, a Georgian breakfast staple with a creamy, soft-boiled egg afloat in a flaky open turnover.
And everything in the shop is made from scratch.
His own favorite thing to make? He looks across the racks of sweet and savory offerings, gazing back and forth.
“Sweets,” he smiled. “I like sweets.”
It makes perfect sense, because when he first joined his father in the family bakery back in Syria, his first assignment was cookies.
He never looked back.
Old Sassoon Bakery is at 1132 Allen Avenue, Pasadena, CA. (626) 791-3280.
