Wine of the Week

Photo and Story by MICHAEL CERVIN
Published on Oct 8, 2020

Markham Vineyards 2017 The Altruist

Merlot still gets a bad rap: It’s not cabernet, and there’s been so much cheap bulk merlot on the market that it has diluted the identity of the grape. That’s why several years ago merlot producers proclaimed October as “Merlot Month.”

And why not? Sure, their goal is to sell more wine, but that’s actually a good thing, because there’s still an abundance of good drinking Merlot to be had. Such is the case with Markham Vineyards’ The Altruist, a merlot-dominant blend with cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot, malbec and cabernet franc. (Markham’s merlots are 15 to 25 percent off this month.)

The red blend was fermented in steel tanks, helping to preserve the taste of bright fresh fruit, then aged in barrels for 15 months. Lovely soft fruits like blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and boysenberry fill the palate in the first sip, making this wine very enticing and rather seductive. The acidity and use of oak support the fruit in complementary ways. “Mouthwatering” seems like a worthless descriptor, yet it accurately reflects the experience of drinking this wine. Simply put — it just tastes really good. I’ve had this wine over several vintages and this is the most flavorful, complete iteration winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls has made. Pull out the smoked pork butt, a juicy cheeseburger or fried chicken as a companion to the wine.

ORIGIN: Napa Valley

ALCOHOL: 14.6 percent

PRICE: $29 (750 ml)

SCORE: 93 points

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