Lunch, Naturally

When it comes to vegan, it seems there are just as many questions as answers. What is true vegan? Should vegan foods replicate meats? What about calories and nutrition? And what is the deal with gluten-free?

We answered a lot of those questions on our visit to Sage Vegan Bistro in One Colorado, one of scores of restaurants celebrating DineLA, and one of many in Old Pasadena.

(For the record, a vegan diet contains only plants—such as vegetables, grains, nuts and fruits—and foods made from plants. Vegans do not eat foods that come from animals, including dairy products and eggs.)

Sage occupies the spacious former space of the Gordon Biersch Brewery in the One Colorado Courtyard and offers an extensive menu of food items that sound very familiar, from crab cakes to fries and wings and burgers to chocolate desserts. There is no fish or chicken or beef to be found anywhere, however.

According to our host Areta Holish, the general manager of Sage Plant Based Bistro & Brewery, the concept is essentially the same as if they were serving meat, poultry and fish.

“Our focus is farm to table, and local,” she explained. “We support small and local businesses.”

Sage owns a farm in Fillmore which grows much of their kale, avocados and oranges.

“It’s seasonal,’ said Holish, who calls herself “90% vegan.”

 “The idea is to constantly nurture the soil,” she added. She grew up in Ukraine, visiting and working her grandparents potato farms, every summer as a child.

“I’m very into ‘Farm to Table’,” she said.

So on to the table. For DineLA, Sage is offering specials for lunch and dinner, and it being noon, we began with a small flight of sage brews—Beer, Kombucha and seltzer. Not being a drinker, I tasted each nothing happened. My dining partner was much better, happily downing at least the Kambucha.

There were also two margaritas, a house margarita and chef Mollie’s Mezcal Margarita.

Lunch began with the ‘Wing’ Platter, which is gluten-free tempura cauliflower with spicy buffalo sauce, sweet & sour sauce, a Ranch  dressing and a BBQ sauce, all made in-house, along with the traditional celery and  carrots. If it matters, it looks like wings, and the cauliflower is meaty and chewy, like, well, wings.

Wings were followed by the “Crab Cakes,’ which are Jackfruit ‘Crab’ Cakes, breaded jackfruit croquettes served with tartar sauce and lemon wedges. Jackfruit, an Asian fruit, is often used as a protein in vegan courses, as it lends itself to a host of flavors, from “pulled pork” to the aforementioned crab cakes.

It also flakes like fish, and shreds like pork. With the proper preparation, flavors and seasonings, it seems to work. It’s also used in their street tacos, and although the crab cakes definitely tasted like fish, it was more of a tuna taste than crab.

Butternut Squash Ravioli was a favorite, with oversized house-made raviolis stuffed with butternut squash, seared, then served with house pesto over a balsamic reduction with lemon and kale, and drizzled with a cashew ‘alfredo’ sauce. This was followed by Spicy Jalapeno Fried Rice, jasmine rice dotted with mild jalapeno and topped with grilled tofu—not exactly the fried rice you’re going to get at any other Chinese restaurant in Pasadena, but, honestly, that’s not a bad thing.

Dessert was a chocolate mousse cake and a brownie sundae served with fried plantains, and an “ice cream” made from a coconut cream base, which had an extra sweet flavor with a slightly grainy texture, like premium ice cream, a delicious end to a unique lunch.

Sage Vegan Bistro’s $25 DineLA special is for dine-in only.

Sage Vegan Bistro, is at 41 Hugus Alley in One Colorado, Pasadena, CA. (626) 564-8111. Sageveganbistro.com.